Een club voor liefhebbers en/of bezitters van een zeiljacht van het Oostzeejol type Midget.
A week of "England"
Midgetsong 1998
Affliction or virus
German Sands
Razzle Dazzle
"The
Passage" 2003
From
Greetsiel to..
2350 seamiles against the
clock
Crossing the Northumberland
Straight
"The Passage"
by: John Cardoso, jcardoso@unb.ca
On Saturday, June 28th of 2003, I towed Fandango on her trailer for the passage that we, 20' Halman: Fandango and I, have been planning for a while - crossing the Northumberland Straight from Pictou, Nova Scotia, to Murray Harbour, Prince Edward Island (PEI), 30 NM, sailing single-handed.
Click on pictures for larger.
Once in Pictou we found ourselves a cozy slip at the Stright-MacKay Marina . The following day was spent on getting familiar with our surroundings, in rigging, and in getting ready for the trip. We backed up the trailer in the salty waters and Fandango floated proudly. I had the help of Peter LaTulipe who did not hesitate in getting up early on a Sunday, and coming down to the marina to give me a hand. I had only met Peter on the evening of my arrival. He was the first of many who, as you will read ahead, unselfishly put themselves out to lend a helping hand.
Once in the water, Fandango saw her mast go up and her stays and shrouds taut. Then came the time to look for her halyards, but only the jib halyard was found on deck. Somehow, the mainsail halyard defiantly had escaped to the top of the mast. And that's how the adventure started, with me going up the 26-foot mast on a wiggly bosun's chair. Up there one has really to forget about the whole situation and enjoy the view. That's what I did, after determinedly rejecting the idea of falling and braking my neck on the hard deck.
Monday morning came and saw Fandango trying out the waters of Pictou Harbour testing out her new depth sounder. That afternoon Peter invited me for a sail on Rojotoo, his beautiful and swift 27' C&C Mark III sailboat. As one of his businesses Peter takes people cruising Pictou's neighbouring waters on Rojotoo. Pictou is an nice place to visit and the pubs downtown will serve you a good meal spiced up with fine local beer. There was no rush to leave -- not yet anyway. I invited Peter and his family to come to "Relics" for supper, and we had a good time together - a little token of my appreciation for all his help.
I went to bed (Fandango's port quarter berth) early, and sleep insidiously came over me. I slept soundly up to 2330 when I was awaken with huge thunderstorms and strong winds all around the area of the marina, also by the sound of the halyards beating the mast to the crazy beat of rhythmless music. Then the diluvial rain came and went, all cleared up after a while, and I went back to sleep.
On Tuesday most things were ready to go and so we did. We inspected the waters of the Harbour and ventured to the big blue waters of the Northumberland Straight. The winds and the seas looked "fairly" inviting. The weather report called for 10 to 15 knot winds. Without looking back Fandango filled her sails and pointing her bow to a 33 degree bearing charged resolutely ahead. "Ahoy Fandango!". We were on our way.
The winds got stiffer and our ETA at Murray Harbour was being delayed, there was also the low tide to consider. I decided to look for shelter at Pictou Island. On approaching the island I started the motor and looked for the fishermen's wharf around West Point. The tide was getting low and we just made it in time. On approaching the wharf I saw no one around; no sign of life. Suddenly I notice this person riding an ATV coming down the hill towards the wharf. A young man named Sam, a Mount Allison University student on a short vacation in the island, saw me coming in and rushed to help to tie Fandango to the wharf's wall. Four tourists on bikes came around and we chatted for a while. Then a fisherman showed up and advised me to leave the wall and tie up to one of the fishing boats to avoid grounding Fandango at the lowest tide two hours later. I did.
To enliven things a bit the ferry serving the small number of people living and visiting Pictou Island came in for his last trip of the day. The ferry service only runs two days a week. People come out of the ferry with luggage, cages with chickens and rabbits, pots and pans, plants and every other sort of imaginable goods, dead and alive.
Next, it was time to make and enjoy supper listening to the weather reports and some music. As I went to sleep a hazy mist approached the Island, and drizzle started to fall. The weather report called for showers during the night, clearing early morning, and possible showers and thunderstorms during the next three days. Not good! It rained all night.
On Thursday morning it was still raining when I woke up. Powder milk, tea, and an oatmeal-muesli breakfast cheered the morning's first moments while a PEI radio station aired a country music program. Then came the time for the big decision. Do we leave for Murray Harbour taking advantage of the morning tide to get out of the wharf, or just sit and wait for the weather to improve, what could possibly not happen for the next three days?
I decided to motor out around the west end of the island to look at the condition of the waters on the island's north side. The water was rough at the West Point, but as I looked out towards PEI I saw a few white caps but it did not look too bad. It was time to go. PEI was only a hazy fine line on the horizon.
As we approached PEI suddenly the wind increased and the seas grew in size. the ride became wild and only a constant hand on the tiller could avoid the 3-foot waves from breaking on port beam. Fandango pitched and rolled with the seas seeming enjoying the ride. I was not that crazy about it, and so I decided to notify the Canadian Coast Guard of my position... just in case.
Around Murray Head, I looked for the NN2 buoy. I found it. Then changed course to 336 degrees True, to the NM fairway buoy, and from there we took the Oldstore Point charted range heading - 234 degrees.
Another five nautical miles and the end of the trip was in sight - Murray Habour. Three guys worked on the slips of the marina - Jamie, the manager/owner of the marina, Ben from Newfoundland who comes down to Murray Harbour to find some work canning lobster every year, and John. They helped Fandango to tie down. During my visit Jamie and Ben were always there for me, helping me in every need and showing me around town. Jamie is working on rebuilding the entire deck and cabin of a 40' fishing boat.
On the night of my arrival I wanted to sleep on a bed, on land. Ben drove me down to the Harbour Motel in his brand new shinny yellow truck. After a good night's sleep the lady managing the motel took pity on me and kindly made me some coffee and toast to feed my hungry stomach. The morning was rainy and after a long and friendly chat over breakfast she gave me a ride down to the marina in her car.
I stayed for a few days in Murray Harbour visiting the place, just having a good rest as part of my vacation, and meditating on all that I had learned from my first single-handed sail on blue water. As always I have concluded that I still have much to learn. Fandango passed the test with flying colors, and I am just glad I made it.
Why would an inexperience sailor like me take the chances to cross the Northumberland Straight singlehanded? Of course the most important reason was that I really wanted to do it. Then, I did trust Fandango. A Halman 20 is not just a boat with character, a classic that makes heads turn and people tell you how pretty she is. No, a Halman is not just a pretty face. A Halman is a seaworthy boat that can take it as it comes and Fandango did just that. Well done Fanny!
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